When dealing with insulation, it is important you know some of the technical terms which can help you in choosing insulation materials. R-value is one of the common used metrics in insulation and it refers to the ability of the insulating material to resist the heat travelling through it. It is calculated by taking the ratio of the difference in temperature across an insulator over the heat flux through it. To the average homeowner, this may sound a bit technical and that is why the only thing you need to remember is that the higher the R-value, the better the insulation.

The R-value is dependent on the insulating material as well as its density and thickness. Some insulating materials are more resistant to temperatures compared to others. This is why R-value is the most critical metric when choosing insulating materials as opposed to thickness or weight.

Insulation Effectiveness Based on Installation

Where and how insulation is installed matters. For instance, compressed insulation may register lower R-values unless it is designed specifically to withstand pressure. When you layer heavy insulation on top of much lighter insulation, you can cause compression. An expected moisture can also lower the R-value substantially and weigh down the insulation. This leaves bare spots and gaps. In light of this reason, it is crucial to install your insulation according to the recommended best practices so as to achieve optimal thermal resistance.

R-Value Per Inch of Thickness

Materials have varying R-values per inch of thickness. For instance, the R-value of snow is R-1.0 per inch of thickness, whereas baled straw has an R-value of 1.5. Loose fill insulation such as cellulose or fiberglass has an R-value that ranges from 2.0 to 3.5. Rigid insulation has a much higher R-value from 3.5 to 8.0 or even higher. The insulating materials that top the list in terms of R-values are vacuum insulated panels. They have an amazingly high R-value in the regions of 30 per inch of thickness.

Assuming you have several layers of insulating materials piled together, getting their total R-value is simple; add their individual R-values. For instance, if you are insulating material is loose fill fiberglass which has a known R-value of 2.5, two inches of the same material will have an R-value of 5. However, this may vary depending on the manner in which the material is installed and the compression pressure piled on it.

The insulation you need for your home depends on the area in which you live as well as the location in your home where you plan to insulate. Floors do not need as much insulation as attics. Colder climates require lots of insulation compared to warmer areas like Florida.

Windows play an important role in your home as far as energy optimization is concerned. This is why homeowners are advised to have these windows installed in their homes in a bid to lower energy bills. If your windows are not energy efficient, chances are you are throwing way money that could have gone into your savings kitty thanks to excessive heating and cooling bills. According to a research done by the U.S. Department of Energy, close to a third of the heat loss in homes occur through windows and doors.

By simply replacing your old windows with new Energy Star specified ones, you can significantly minimize heat loss and give your home the efficiency boost that will save you money. In terms of cost, energy efficient windows are more expensive compared to the traditional ones, but the payoff comes with the lower utility bills you enjoy. When you are doing window replacement, consider ones with the following energy efficient features.

Multiple Panes

Windows with a single pane of glass are not as efficient in providing insulation compared to those with multiple panes. Multiple panes windows normally come in either double or triple pane configurations with sealed layers of air between the panes so as to minimize heat escape or transfer.
Low-E Coating
This coating usually covers the glass panes and helps in reducing heat transfer. This means the coating can prevent heat from entering your home during warm or hot seasons as well as prevent heat from escaping your home during the colder seasons.
Gas Fill
Gas fill like krypton or argon can help in insulating windows and their performance can be much better than air insulation because gas fill has more thermal resistance. The beauty with these gases is that they are inert and non-toxic meaning they don’t react with other substances and hence cannot pose any health hazards even if they leak.

Framing Material

Framing materials such as vinyl, fiberglass and wood can help in making windows energy efficient. For instance, vinyl frames come with insulated cavities which give the energy efficiency in your home a boost. Fiberglass frames on the other hand have a much higher heat transfer resistance compared to wood, but are also costly. Wood is pricey and requires high maintenance.

Energy Efficient Window Labels

When buying energy efficient windows, it is important to check that they have been tested and certified by the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC). Some of the labels include the U-Factor which measures the quantity of heat that can escape from inside a room, Solar Heat Gain Coefficient which measures how much heat can enter a room from the outside, Air Leakages which represents the quantity of air that can enter a room through the windows and Visible Transmittance which quantifies the light that can make its way into a room.

For many homeowners, the beginning of the year presents a unique challenge where plunging winter temperatures cause them to rely more on their boilers and furnaces. The utility bills that come out of this can be overwhelming to the homeowners. Fortunately, there are ways these homeowners can pursue to put their HVAC expenses under control. This article addresses families using radiators.

Below are simple hacks to bring down energy wastage during winter.

HVAC Upgrade

In an article carried in the New York Times, the problem of people living in apartment buildings where boilers have to work extra hard to pump steam or hot water to residents of upper floors was highlighted. According to the article, these homeowners are forced to open their windows in an attempt to get relief from the billowing heat which is an absurd situation particularly in the middle of winter due to the massive waste of energy.

Fortunately, there a number of fixes to radiators that can help enhance the efficiency and ensure the rooms are heated appropriately. According to a study done by the Energy Efficiency for All, there are changes that a HVAC professional can do to stem unnecessary wastage of energy during this period while at the same time, keeping the homeowner comfortable. Whether you live in a single family home or a multi-unit apartment building, these upgrades are applicable.

Insulation, Orifice Plates and Control Knobs

By installing an orifice plate onto the radiator valve, a HVAC technician can limit the amount of steam that can effectively pass through. This means even if the boiler is working extra hard than is usually the case, the room or home will not excessively heat up. The orifice plate takes a few minutes to install into the radiator and the benefits can be felt almost immediately.

The use of more accurate thermostats and better insulation can also improve the performance of your radiators by correctly responding to the temperature in your home. Instead of setting one temperature level for the entire home, having a knob that can control the temperature level of individual radiators can be a plus.

Replacing Your Radiator or Boiler

If you continue experiencing problems with your radiator or boiler even after putting in place the above fixes, the best solution may be to replace the whole unit with a new and more energy efficient model. In some instances, you may be able to save big by swapping your old unit for a more modern piece of equipment.

Do not suffer with unpredictable winter temperatures and instead get a professional to fix your radiator or do a complete system overhaul.

The ideal time to shop for cooling equipment is when you are in winter or just at the end of it, but before the temperature starts climbing. New homeowners in particular have challenges picking a system that is right for their homes because they look at the market as one full of alternatives that can be confusing at times.
A reputable HVAC contractor should be able to properly size the HVAC system to be bought and advise the homeowner on the different efficiency options. However the best thing to do as a homeowner is to familiarize with the different types of HVAC equipment available.

Split System AC

The reason they are known as split system is because they are split into indoor and outdoor components. The indoor units has a blower unit and an evaporator coil which help in drawing hear and moisture from the air. The outdoor unit on the other hand is home to the condenser coil which releases the captured heat to the outside environment. It also has a compressor responsible for pumping the refrigerant between the indoor and outdoor component through a copper piping. These systems use the ductwork to deliver conditioned air and are normally paired with a gas furnace which shares the ducting.

Split System Heat pumps

These are dual systems that work as cooling units in summer and heating units in winter. As opposed to the other units, split system heat pumps do not burn fuel to create heat, rather they move thermal energy between the indoor and outdoor space. The common types of split system heat pumps are geothermal and air source.
For the air source units, they cannot draw warmth from the outdoor air during extreme cold temperatures hence a backup heat source is required. Geothermal heat pumps are much more efficient because they draw heat from the ground and keep heating even when the outdoor temperatures become cold.

Ductless Mini-Splits

These are available either as traditional ACs with electric heat or air source heat pumps. They comprise a single outdoor compressor/condenser which is connected to anything between 1 and 4 wall-mounted indoor air handlers via a conduit which contains the power supply, condensate drain and refrigerant tubing. Ductwork isn’t required because each air handler has a blower unit which is designed to cool a single area or room.

Packaged Units

These HVAC systems have a condenser, compressor and evaporator all housed in one unit which is then placed outdoors on the roof or near an exterior wall. The ducting runs into the interior of the home. A packaged unit may house an AC with electric coils, an air source heat pump or a gas furnace that is added for heating purposes.

Before making your purchase, you should ensure that you run as much as possible to avoid post-purchase dissonance and worse still getting an inappropriate system for your home.